We don’t just sell plants, trees and shrubs. We also offer an amazing full services for your and your garden. Whether it’s your own garden or a commercial project, we offer unparalleled advice and service. Check out our services below.

So the weather is good and your plants need water. Preferably when the sun is not directly on the trees & plants but do give them enough water, especially if you have them in pots or in ground that is built up or not great soil.

We can supply seep hose and even timers if it makes it easier but if you’ve gone to the trouble of buying beautiful trees, hedges & plants please please please water them. 

Some advice from the RHS on watering:

Ideally water plants early in the morning, to avoid evaporation loss during the day. On warm summer days, evening watering is also likely to be effective, the dry soil soaking it in readily and low humidity at night reducing risk of disease.

To determine the need for watering, inspect the soil at a spade’s depth. If the soil feels damp, there is unlikely to be any need to water, but if it is dry, then watering is probably required for some plants.

Be aware that clay soils can feel damp even when all available water has been used and that sand soils can feel dry even if some water is available. The only way around this is to develop experience in matching the observed state of an individual garden’s soil to the growth rate of the plants. Wilting is usually preceded by changes in leaf position and darkening of leaf colour.

For plants in pots, the compost looking paler or feeling dry to the touch and the pot becoming lighter in weight (and consequently more prone to blowing over) are all signs that the compost is beginning to dry and is in need of water. 

It is better to water the garden before drought really sets in, to keep the soil moisture levels even and avoid soil moisture deficits building up.

Once drought has set in, it is futile to try and remedy this by light watering over a wide area. Light watering may encourage surface rather than deep roots, leaving plants more susceptible to drought. Instead, make a single thorough watering of the plants that are suffering. Try to water in the cool of the evening or the very early morning, so that less water is lost immediately to evaporation.

Contact us for ideas on how to solve your privacy or screening issues or see below how we resolved one Dublin residents issues in her City Garden.

Creating Privacy with the use of a well placed tree or a row of specimen espaliered frames is what we do best.  We have so many options to block unsightly views or resolving privacy issues that we can supply, deliver and plant too should you need us to.  Mature trees, espalier trees  and evergreen trees are all ideal for screening naturally.  Well placed specimen trees can disguise an unsightly view or block a window in a neighbours house.

It’s that time of year again.

There really does seem to be very little knowledge about bare-root and rootballed trees and hedging and why and when to plant them so I’m hoping over the next few weeks to take the mystery out of it.

Bare-root is simply that we lift the tree or plant out of our fields here and shake all the soil off so you can just as it says on the tin, see the bare root. Lots of deciduous trees & hedging, up to a certain height and age can be sold in this way from November through to March and the earlier in the season the better. The benefits of these are;
– the plant is dormant and so suffers least disruption
– the lack of pot, soil etc quite simply makes it cheaper
– by the time the spring leaves come the plant is at home and ready to get down to the business of growing and/or flowering.

Certain plants cannot be lifted bare for many reasons and these include evergreen trees and hedging and more mature trees, we can advise you on specific species and their tolerances at heights to being lifted. These include Laurels, Pines, conifers, yew as well as many more.

Rootballed means that we lift the plant with a ball of soil attached to it, wrap it in a hessian or other similar biodegradable cover and you plant it with the cover still on causing least disruption to the root structure. The main difference between this and potted trees is the range of plants/trees and sizes available, the other reason is that a plant/tree that has been able to grow in the ground rather than in a pot has a much better root structure therefore a stronger, usually bushier specimen. We quite simply do not have enough room to pot the complete range of stock to cover the full year hence a bigger selection at this stage. Rootballed trees are available NOW! It’s been cold enough at nights to lift these. The bare-root trees & hedging will start to be lifted next week and over the coming two to three weeks the full selection will be lifted and ready.

There are lots of other questions that we asked about bare-root and rootballed trees and hedging that we get asked and are happy to help with;
Why is this tree loosing leaves? What growth rate should this hedge have? If I drive the plant with fertiliser will I loose bulk? What will screen my view of my neighbour’s house (and theirs of yours)?
Over the next few weeks I’ll be updating you on how to plant these, where to plant and lots of other questions that we get asked every day, with a few videos on the brand new shiny website to boot. In the meantime, ASK AWAY…..